This post examines the different cuts of suit, and how to decide which style and size to choose for you.Before looking at a size chart – First Choose your Cut
Each Brand we sell, is made slightly differently. That is why each suit, where we have it has a different size chart. In order to be able to ensure you get the type of fit you like, we assess each suit and put it into one of 3 “Fits”:
- Classic
- Tailored
- Slim
If you buy a 42 regular in each of these different fits, they will all go over your frame, the difference between them is essentially the tightness of the fit. The modern slim fit, give you great lines, ans so you will look superb, but there will be less room to move in it. The trousers will be a snug fit, and the arms will not have so much room in them.
You can see this if you look at the pictures. The classic has a square cut, the slim a snug silhouette.
Next what is your chest size?
To work out your chest size, then measure with a tape measure around your chest. The idea is to be relaxed when you do this, as you are when you are standing. So not with your chest filled with air, and your muscles hard. If you do this, you will end up with a suit too big for you, and you will not look your best.
What size trousers should you buy?
Generally people have a 4-6 inch drop. So a 42″ chest will mean a 36 to 40″ waist. The best way rather than measuring, is to find a pair of trousers(not jeans) with a size in them. If you cannot, find a pair that fits well round your waist (Not hip – waist) and measure round the waistband when done up. This will generally measure 1 1/2 inches more than the size you buy. Yes sorry, the shops are deceiving you. So if the trousers measure 37.5 inches, then that would usually be marked a 36 inch waist.
So What Length of Jacket and trousers?
More complex than you thought this? Well, this is the last one. Yes some of us have long backs, and others have long legs. A bespoke tailor will also allow for the spare of your back, your bum, your shoulders, etc etc. However, the off the peg manufacturers have had this right for a long time. depending on your height, you will need a different length of jacket and trousers. As a rule, start at:
- Short fit for people up to 5’7″ tall
- Regular fit for people 5’8″ to 5’10” tall
- Long fit for people 5’11” and over
Over 6ft 2″. We do now stock some XL jackets and trousers especially for you.
| General rough guide to Jacket Chest Size (inches) | |||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chest Fit (inches) | 36″ | 38″ | 40″ | 42″ | 44″ | 46″ | 48″ | 50″ | 52″ | 54″ | 56″ | 58″ | 60″ | 62″ | |
| Back Length | |||||||||||||||
| S | 28¾” | 29″ | 29¼” | 29½” | 29¾” | 30″ | 30¼” | 30½” | 30¾” | 30¾” | 31¼” | 31½” | 31¾” | 31¾” | |
| R | 29¾” | 30″ | 30¼” | 30½” | 30¾” | 31″ | 31¼” | 31½” | 31¾” | 31¾” | 32¼” | 32½” | 32¾” | 32¾” | |
| L | 30¾” | 31″ | 31¼” | 31½” | 31¾” | 32″ | 32¼” | 32½” | 32¾” | 32¾” | 33¼” | 33½” | 33¾” | 33¾” | |
| Sleeve Length (crown to cuff) |
|||||||||||||||
| S | 23¼” | 23¾” | 24″ | 24½” | 25″ | 25¼” | 25½” | 25¾” | 25¾” | 26″ | 26¼” | 26½” | 26¾” | 26¾” | |
| R | 24¼” | 24¾” | 25″ | 25½” | 25¾” | 26¼” | 26½” | 26¾” | 26¾” | 27″ | 27¼” | 27½” | 27¾” | 27¾” | |
| L | 25¼” | 25¾” | 26″ | 26½” | 26¾” | 27¼” | 27½” | 27¾” | 27¾” | 28″ | 28¼” | 28½” | 28¾” | 28¾” | |
Back Length: From the top of the collar to the hem of the garment.
Sleeve Length (crown to cuff): From the top of the sleeve to the end of the cuff, with a straight arm.